From Sketch To Runway

 

Left: original sketch / Right: on the runway (photo: Randy Brooke)

Lots of people have asked me about my design process and how I get from concept to runway.  Well, it's a long and often challenging road with bumps (and sometimes giant pot holes) along the way.  But, in facing challenges and solving problems, designers come up with some pretty great stuff. What happens at 3.30 am when you realize you've underestimated the yardage you had left of a certain fabric?  Get creative.  Think outside the box and work with what you have because buying more fabric at 3.30 in the morning is not an option and finishing the piece tomorrow, when stores are open, would be too late.

 

original sketch

Left: houndstooth trench on the runway (model: Danielle, photo: Randy Brooke) / Right: coat on WendyB 

So, quite often, we (designers) change our original ideas, if only just slightly, to either solve a problem or just because we thought of something a little bit cooler along the way.  For me, I find one of the advantages to doing all of my own fabric research, draping and sewing is that I have total control over the entire design process.  Absolute freedom -- such is not the case when working under another company's corporate structure.

 

 original sketch

 

bouclé cape on the runway (model: Que / photo: Randy Brooke)  

   

backstage... (model: Que / photo: Randy Brooke)

I am an extremely visual person, but I tend to work better three dimensionally rather than through a sketch, so some of the creativity happens on the figure during the draping process.  Draping is dimensional, it's "hands on," tangible.  Things can happen on the form that can't always happen in a sketch.  Proportion becomes more distinguishable, volume is gauged better, shape is more discernible. Therefore, adjustments, additions and enhancements take place and I deviate from the original sketch a little bit. 

original sketch

Left: long coat, houndstooth shorts and handknit scarf on the runway (model: Alexandra, photo: Randy Brooke)

Right: back view of same coat in lookbook shoot (model: Caitlin Sloat, photo: Shane LaVancher)

Sometimes, I don't bother to give much detail or color to a sketch at all. I just have a general idea of what I want, in my mind's eye, and I wait until I can refine the piece -- psychically, on the mannequin.  I've whipped up fabulous ideas on airport napkins, receipts or the back of a business card just to quickly get a concept recorded before I forget.  I guess it's kind of like being a comedian who quickly jots down a 'bit' before it escapes their mind.  Even when they wake up in the middle of the night...

Google Chrome, Why Do You Hate Me?

Dear Taffetadarlings,

Please accept my apologies for my absence as of late.  I have been struggling with so many different Internet and computer issues it would make your head spin.  Google Chrome refueses to download properly, so until I can solve that problem, they have control of my blog and I am hostage to the impossible mess it's made with my formatting, etc.  None of the content is highlightable, therefore, I can not italicize, underline or even change font color (or size or type).  The cursor doesn't work and there is no scrolling.  Infuriating.  This is how my page looks (below) as I try to type a new post...

I've been wanting to share some more photos from my show/collection, but it's so hard to post photos on this thing right now.  Be patient and check back often.  Meanwhile, I will leave you with this...

 STACY LOMMAN : NEW YORK / Fall 2012

Royal blue wool gabardine racer back dress with red trim

Model: Caitlin Sloat (Major)

Photo: Shane LaVancher

The Oscars!

First, let me begin by saying that I hope this post turns out okay due to all of the technical difficulties I've been having with Blogger lately (that's why I have been very quiet lately!).  Okay, so let's move on to the good stuff... the 84th Acadamey Awards!

I thought last night's red carpet was a lot better than what we've seen lately, so I was happy about that.  I wasn't too happy that none of the starlets were wearing STACY LOMMAN : NEW YORK or Wendy Brandes fine jewelry!  Whatever were they thinking?  Well, there's always next year!

Photo Credit : Getty Images

Obviously, Angelina Jolie (well, her right leg to be more specific) caused quite a stir and I'm still trying to figure out why.  Why shouldn't she show some leg?  First of all, her legs are fantastic and secondly, Donatella created an absolutely gorgeous dress that has a high slit in order to show off a leg!  As far as I'm concerned, Angie was doing the dress justice.  She was doing her job.  From a designer's point of view, I would be furious if I had a piece on the runway that wasn't shown off properly.  We put so much time and effort into these pieces and it would be a travesty if nobody got to see all of the details that make a dress so special and beautiful.  So, I'm going out on a limb and defending Angie, her leg and her gorgeous dress -- YES, even though it was black.  The Versace gown had a lovely proportion which not only featured Ms. Jolie's gams, but her tiny little waist as well.  My only issue with this overall look was that Angie needs to eat.  When she turned sideways, she disappeared and then nobody got to enjoy the gown anyway.

Okay, let's talk about the girls who "did it right" -- obviously, I'm including Angelina on that list, so who else "made it work," as Tim Gunn would say?  Here's my top 5 below...

1. Gwenyth Paltrow in Tom Ford: Flawless.  I'm a fan of clean, streamline, no fuss and this coat/cape and dress combo was perfection.  It certainly doesn't hurt that Ms. Paltrow spends her days exercising so that her body is just as sleek and streamlined as the dress.  My only issue was her hair.  I would have preferred a tied, twisted chignon rather than her low-slung pony that suggested "soccer mom," but I'm willing to forgive her hair faux pas because her dress was amazing.  Glam.  Slam dunk.

Gwenyth Paltrow in Tom Ford

Photo Credit : Getty

2. My second choice was the beautiful, Rose Byrne who looked (to me) very modern.  And in my opinion, she got the hair right!  Even though black is usually a difficult choice on the red carpet because the details don't show up very well, the sequins solved that problem.

Rose Byrne in Vivenne Westwood

Photo Credit: Getty

3. Milla Jovovich snagged my third spot.  Another girl in white!  I love this trend.  But, I'm also loving that she kept it pretty clean and fuss free like Gwen did.  I'm a fan of asymmetry, so I totally approve of the one shoulder silhouette.  Her hair and makeup were lovely -- very old Hollywood. 

Milla Jovovich in Elie Saab

Photo Credit: Getty

4. Since this seems to be the "Year of the Redheads," I felt that I needed to include one in my top five.  So, I was a little torn between Emma Stone (whom I adore and 99% of the time nails it with fashion) and Jessica Chastain.  I went with Jessica partly because it was definitely her year, partly because she brought her mom as her date and partly because she chose to wear McQueen.



Jessica Chastain in Alexander McQueen

Photo Credit: Getty

5. Angelina Jolie (see above)

I realize that I just selected three black gowns and two white.  I'm a little suprised because I am usually such a fan of color on the red carpet.  That said, there were some stunning red dresses that were worth mentioning...

Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton: The color is gorgeous, the fit is perfection, the peplum is on trend, the style is so Michelle and the little brooch seems very "Audrey."  Beautiful.  And Michelle is so pretty -- hair and makeup, flawless.  She has the face to pull off a pixie cut and I, for one, am glad she does it!



And finallly, a redhead in red!  What?  Yes, it CAN be done!  Emma Stone nails it in Giambatista Valli...

Since my formatting has been disabled, I fear this blog post is all over the place.  Therefore, I'll have to post my top five (or maybe even ten!) disasters another day!  One last note before I wrap up:  I know that Rooney Mara is supposed to be a "designers dream" and I can assure you, I'd love to be dressing her, but I was underwhelmed.  From the neck up, she was spot on.  But, the Givenchy dress didn't fit her.  Sadly, it just hung there like a sheet.  Too bad.



MODern World Video!

What's Black and White and Red All Over?

The answer to this old riddle is, of course, the newspaper!  However, in this case, I'm referring to the colors in my Fall 2012 "Modern World" collection.  I also added some Royal --after all, what "Mod" collection could be complete without it?  Three days until showtime, stay tuned for photos!

a glimpse of the fabrics I'm using for fall

Goal and Win!

It's been a good week Taffetadarlings!  I reached my fundraising goal on Kickstarter and I couldn't have done it without your help.  Every season, I've had such an overwhelming amount of support and encouragement and this time was no different.  Also, with each collection, I've had a few "angels" come out of nowhere to surprise me with their extreme generosity.   I feel incredibly lucky that such wonderful people have so much faith in me and my work.  Thanks to everyone who contributed this season (and past seasons), I'm so excited for Fall 2012, "Modern World!"

The other piece of good news I received recently was being named as a finalist for the Fashion Group International's 2012 Rising Star Awards in women's ready-to-wear.  The awards luncheon, to announce the winners, was held on Thursday, January 26 and I got up bright and early to head over to my girl, and fellow finalist in the fine jewelry category, Wendy Brandes' place.  I brought her a freshly finished dress I made for her to wear for the happy occasion. 

Wendy in her red peplum dress

While I didn't snag the prize this year, I was so happy to be a finalist and I've set my sights on next year!  The good news is that WendyB DID snag the award for fine jewelry!  Yay!  So, she and my dress (well, it's technically hers) stepped up to the stage looking radiant.  I was so happy for her that the elation just spewed out of me and I inadvertently let out a "Whooo, yah Wendy!"

(right to left) Wendy, holding her award; friend, client and Kickstarter contributor, Christine; me wearing an orchid -- all of the finalists were given corsages!

I was at a table with my friend James, and his group from Hearst and thankfully, they didn't view my little outburst as obnoxious, but genuine.  They had all commented on our "tag team" dynamic when I passed the elaborate Empress Wu dragon ring that caught everyone's eye around the table for them to admire (Wendy let me borrow it for the day!).  "You guys are adorable," they gushed.  "You wear her jewelry and she wears your clothes!"  And Wendy made sure that the entire crowd at Cipriani knew that she was wearing my dress when she thanked me in her perfect speech.  Talk about sharing the spotlight!  Now, that's generosity in its purest.

 

proudly displaying Wendy's Empress Wu dragon ring!

Faux Ostrich Anyone?

I'm still pushing forward with my Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for my fall 2012 collection and I've recently added another sponsor tier to the project.  A contribution of $1000 will not only get you a custom faux ostrich vest, but it will help an up-and-coming designer (ME!) to show this season at New York Fashion Week.  Not into ostrich?  No problem!  I have a variety "prize" categories for different sponsorship levels.  Maybe you'd rather have a pair of retro sunglasses with my logo or a mug, keychain, tote bag or a collection T-shirt?  Check out my project on Kickstarter and if you're feeling generous, please make a donation -- you'll instantly become a fashionista... one of the cool kids (in my book!!).

long faux ostrich vest from my fall 2012 collection (shorter option available!)