Harris Tweed Gets Feminine

 

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

Harris Tweed plaid blazer with leather trim and pant

They call themselves the "Guardians of The Orb."  Established in 1993 through an act of Parliament, The Harris Tweed Authority is an organization responsible for promoting and maintaining the authenticity, standard and reputation of the world famous Harris Tweed cloth which can only be defined as: 

"Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides."   

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

Harris Tweed navy jacket with feather sleeves and pant

In the early 1900's Harris Tweed was highly sought after among the upper class of the Outer Hebrides and, over the decades, it has been embraced by the world.  To say that this fabric is special would be an understatement -- it is exceptional.  In today's world of mass manufacturing, it is extremely rare and most definitely refreshing to encounter such integrity, attention to quality and unwavering standards.  I consider my garments held to the same standards, so Harris Tweed seemed like the perfect fit and I felt quite fortunate to be able to work with this world famous cloth.

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

Harris Tweed houndstooth coat with silver lizard buckle closure

Harris Tweed is typically used in menswear but, when styled the right way, it crosses over nicely into the women's arena.  I have always appreciated the structure of a men's jacket and the strength associated with men's suiting -- it definitely influences me as a designer.  So, when I started working with Harris Tweed last season, I was thrilled.  

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

Harris Tweed herringbone vest and pant

I had an Edwardian theme in mind for Fall 2013 before putting pen to paper.  I looked through the Harris Tweed patterns, made my selections and started sketching.  This is, hands down, the most fun part of the design process for me!  I incorporated additional fabrics from other mills in the mix along with Harris Tweed and, as I sketched and played with the swatches, the initial Edwardian inspiration morphed into a slightly Gothic collection -- which I love.  The result is a group of mysterious, luxurious and strong pieces that straddle the line between masculine and feminine.

STACY LOMMAN: FALL 2013

wool check corset and wool plaid skirt

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

brocade corset and silk/cashmere "bustle" skirt

STACY LOMMAN : FALL 2013

cotton moiré tuxedo jacket and satin pant

'Tis The Season? What Season?

Regardless of your thoughts on global warming, fashion has responded (as it does so well) to new needs and requirements over the last several years by creating a large category dedicated to seasonless dressing.  It's all about layers.  I am a huge fan of Reed Krakoff, and his pre-fall collection demonstrates this concept beautifully. 

 

a look from Reed Krakoff's pre-fall 2013 collection

photo source: Style.com

 

It seems quite possible that the new(ish) addition of "pre-collections" to the fashion calendar could be a catalyst to the blurred lines between seasons. With four collections per year rather than two, distinguishing fall from pre-spring or spring from pre-fall can be difficult.

 

a look from Reed Krakoff's pre-fall 2013 collection

photo source: Style.com

  

I have expressed my opinion about the "white after Labor Day rule" more than once in this blog and I'm also a fan of the safer, Winter White option.  But what about white shoes in November or even February?  Before you gasp with disapproval, consider this: They are being shown on the runways right now, so you'll see them in the stores by August and on people's feet by October.  In fact, they're already offered in the high-end stores for THIS fall/winter season.  So, two years from now when they're trendy in the "fly over states" and people's eyes have been conditioned to perceive this as normal and acceptable, remember your initial reaction :-)

 

 

Fendi loafer available at Barney's

 

Still not for you?  Don't fret.  There are plenty of seasonless dressing options that are a little more palatable to the mainstream and more quickly accepted.  Chunky sleeveless sweaters?  Why not?  They're easy to layer under a heavy coat or puffer jacket and when you have the option of arm warmers (like the ones I've been selling from my fall 2012 collection), you're all set!

two looks from Krakoff's pre-fall 2013 collection

white shoes, skirts, bare legs and bare arms -- looks like spring except for the fur vests

Photo Source: Style.com

 

 

STACY LOMMAN, Fall 2012

dove grey shearling vest with rib knit arm warmers

Photo: Shane LaVancher

 

STACY LOMMAN, Fall 2012

sleeveless top and faux ostrich skirt with rib knit arm warmers

Photo: Randy Brooke 

 



From Sketch To Runway

 

Left: original sketch / Right: on the runway (photo: Randy Brooke)

Lots of people have asked me about my design process and how I get from concept to runway.  Well, it's a long and often challenging road with bumps (and sometimes giant pot holes) along the way.  But, in facing challenges and solving problems, designers come up with some pretty great stuff. What happens at 3.30 am when you realize you've underestimated the yardage you had left of a certain fabric?  Get creative.  Think outside the box and work with what you have because buying more fabric at 3.30 in the morning is not an option and finishing the piece tomorrow, when stores are open, would be too late.

 

original sketch

Left: houndstooth trench on the runway (model: Danielle, photo: Randy Brooke) / Right: coat on WendyB 

So, quite often, we (designers) change our original ideas, if only just slightly, to either solve a problem or just because we thought of something a little bit cooler along the way.  For me, I find one of the advantages to doing all of my own fabric research, draping and sewing is that I have total control over the entire design process.  Absolute freedom -- such is not the case when working under another company's corporate structure.

 

 original sketch

 

bouclé cape on the runway (model: Que / photo: Randy Brooke)  

   

backstage... (model: Que / photo: Randy Brooke)

I am an extremely visual person, but I tend to work better three dimensionally rather than through a sketch, so some of the creativity happens on the figure during the draping process.  Draping is dimensional, it's "hands on," tangible.  Things can happen on the form that can't always happen in a sketch.  Proportion becomes more distinguishable, volume is gauged better, shape is more discernible. Therefore, adjustments, additions and enhancements take place and I deviate from the original sketch a little bit. 

original sketch

Left: long coat, houndstooth shorts and handknit scarf on the runway (model: Alexandra, photo: Randy Brooke)

Right: back view of same coat in lookbook shoot (model: Caitlin Sloat, photo: Shane LaVancher)

Sometimes, I don't bother to give much detail or color to a sketch at all. I just have a general idea of what I want, in my mind's eye, and I wait until I can refine the piece -- psychically, on the mannequin.  I've whipped up fabulous ideas on airport napkins, receipts or the back of a business card just to quickly get a concept recorded before I forget.  I guess it's kind of like being a comedian who quickly jots down a 'bit' before it escapes their mind.  Even when they wake up in the middle of the night...

Google Chrome, Why Do You Hate Me?

Dear Taffetadarlings,

Please accept my apologies for my absence as of late.  I have been struggling with so many different Internet and computer issues it would make your head spin.  Google Chrome refueses to download properly, so until I can solve that problem, they have control of my blog and I am hostage to the impossible mess it's made with my formatting, etc.  None of the content is highlightable, therefore, I can not italicize, underline or even change font color (or size or type).  The cursor doesn't work and there is no scrolling.  Infuriating.  This is how my page looks (below) as I try to type a new post...

I've been wanting to share some more photos from my show/collection, but it's so hard to post photos on this thing right now.  Be patient and check back often.  Meanwhile, I will leave you with this...

 STACY LOMMAN : NEW YORK / Fall 2012

Royal blue wool gabardine racer back dress with red trim

Model: Caitlin Sloat (Major)

Photo: Shane LaVancher

Fall 2011 Fashion Show

For those of you who do not have a Facebook account (the "anti-FB's"), I wanted to share my Fall 2011 Collection with you.  After hours and hours of editing and arranging still photos, sound bytes and runway clips with my videographer extraordinaire, the video is finally here!  Hope you enjoy...

Fall 2011

As Fall 2011 Fashion Week winds down in NYC, I am smack in the middle of my collection.  This season, I chose to show a bit later (end of March) rather than compete with the hundreds of other shows during Fashion Week.  There are literally ten shows every hour for one solid week all over the city and new labels and designers can easily get lost amongst the big guns and the hyped up-and-comers.  Though I am a veteran designer, I am still considered a newbie in terms of my own label, STACY LOMMAN : NEW YORK, which just launched last September.

sample in progress

So, I will keep my taffetadarlings updated over the next few weeks and perhaps even give you a glimpse of the new line.  I'm very excited to be working on my fall collection.  This season, I'm branching out a bit and you will see, of course, dresses as well as separates.  And I am LOVING my fabrics!  They are top shelf in quality, but they are innovate and subtle at the same time.  Have I piqued your interest??