From the Archives...

Remember this magazine?  I pulled this from my personal archives to share.  Classic Chanel suit... worked in the 20's, the 40's, the 60's, the 80's (as seen in photo) and today!  Kudos Coco (and Karl)!

cover of "Taxi" magazine, November 1986

On Trend

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of attending the Fall/Winter 2010/2011 ready-to-wear presentation by the Fashion Group Foundation. I’m going to keep today’s post brief, because I’m actually covering the event for the Fashion Group Members Bulletin, so I’ve got to get crackin’ on my article!

As always, FGI’s Creative Director, Marylou Luther, put together a fantastic overview of the collections from New York, London, Milan and Paris. The presentation is so popular in the industry; FGI has four shows in one day in order to accommodate everybody who wants to attend. After the trend overview, panelists Ken Downing (Sr. VP, Fashion Director, Neiman Marcus), Sarah Brown (Beauty Director, Vogue) and Julie Gilhart (Sr. VP, Fashion Director, Barneys) answered questions posed by moderator, Diane von Furstenberg, President of the CFDA. Unfortunately, Robin Givhan (Style, Washington Post) was unable to attend as she was with Mrs. Obama! OK, I guess we can excuse her :-)

New York: Altuzarra (left), London: Burberry (right)

Milan: Fendi (left), Paris: Akris (right)

The trend overview was full of great information that is essential to editors, designers and buyers. In terms of color, Camel made the biggest statement on the runways -- I called it immediately after the New York Collections (click here for my post “Camel’s Back”). It’s always gratifying to know that I am on the same wavelength as one of the top trend forecasters in the country!

Aquascutum (left), Tahari (right)
 

"Mash-ups” are a trend to look for next season (although, it’s always present). This term refers to the combination of fabrics and prints that normally wouldn’t work together, but when mixed and matched with an artist’s eye, the result is brilliant. Dries Van Noten is the reigning King! Fellow blogger, Elena (fabulous finds) just mentioned this trend on her Facebook page. Again, I love it when great minds think alike!

Dries Van Noten, Fall 2010

The panel discussion was both interesting and encouraging. The message that stuck out for me is that authenticity is more important than ever in this economy. Well, that and Diane von Furstenberg should have been on the panel rather than asking the questions! She has a lot to say and a lot of experience-- I would have preferred to hear more of her point of view. Ms. von Furstenberg did manage to get her two cents in whenever possible. I love a strong woman!

DVF, Fall 2010

The Fashion Group is based in New York, but has regional chapters in cities throughout the country (as well as some international cities). To become a member and to find out about the perks, visit www.fgi.org

All photo credits: Firstview

Get Some Courrèges

Continuing my theme from the other day, Fashion Repeats, I thought I would head back to the 60's -- not on some psychedelic acid trip or anything, but back to the fashion archives. Fashion trends usually repeat every 25 years or so, which is why we have seen the resurgence of the 1980's over the past few seasons. Since I'm a child of this decade, I don't find what I see in magazines, stores and on the runways lately to be as tragic as others do!

 a very modern looking Courrèges leather jacket from the 1960's

Claude Montana, circa 1988 (left) & Balenciaga, Spring 2010 (right)

Considering the cyclical tendencies of fashion tends, it is also logical that I find the styles of the 1960's to be visually appealing. I've always been drawn to strong shapes and geometric styling and this has manifested into my personal design aesthetic. As a young, budding designer, I was not only influenced by the innovators of the 1980's (i.e. Montana, Mugler, Ferré), but also of the 1960's.

Some of my favorite 1960's fashions are the creations of André Courrèges. Courrèges was a French designer known for his ultra-modern style. Born March 9, 1923 in the Pyrenees, Courrèges traveled to Paris at age 25 and worked briefly at a fashion design house (Geanne Lafaurie) before going to work with Spanish designer, Cristobal Balenciaga.

Courrèges, 1965 (Left)

(Right) Me in 1988 in my pathetic attempt to make a similar jacket style (I didn't even know how to sew back then!)  I'm subjecting myself to this embarrassing photo for the good of this post!

Courrèges eventually started his own collection, introducing space-age clothes. His designs were angular and he used shapes such as the square, trapezoid and triangle to create strong, futuristic and minimalistic pieces. The designer said that he built his dresses rather than designed them. Bright colors, plastic materials, synthetic fabrics and bold black and white patterns were rigidly constructed into unique styles that became Andre’s signature look.

Courrèges collage

Fashion Repeats

I've been kinda busy lately and I realize that I've been neglecting my blog a bit.  Shame on me!  This week, I am working on a few new styles and I always like to do a bit of research first -- some brainstorming to get the creative juices flowing. 

vintage motorcycle girl

I promise to share more on these garments later, but in the meantime I came across this amazing photo on the net (from an old LIFE magazine).  Something about it is speaking to me... perhaps that insanely wide and magnificent leather belt adorned with metal hardware.  How many designers have cinched the waist of a runway model with a version of a cummerbund style belt?  Good style and good fashion always repeats itself.

Yves Saint Laurent available on Net-A-Porter

McLaren... The Original Anarchist

Sex Pistols - Anarchy in the U.K.

Over the past several years, I have become much more interested in karma, fate, destiny and the energy in the universe. I've never been a religious person, but I can definitely say that I am spiritual. I have experienced some strange and unexpected situations lately, so it's possible that I put too much stock into little coincidences.

Malcolm McLaren with the Sex Pistols, circa 1976

Photo Credit: mirror.co.uk

In any case, I found it a little weird that I had mentioned the entrepreneurial leader of punk, Malcolm McLaren in my post on April 7. I also talked about him in my post about Sex Pistols front man, Johnny Rotten (aka John Lydon) back on January 31 (Johnny's birthday). When I heard of McLaren's passing yesterday, I got chills. I know that I am, but a little speck in this big universe, so it would be unbelievably egocentric to think I had something to do with it, but I did find it odd that I had just mentioned him the day before his passing.

 

Sex Pistols in the trash

As if that didn't freak me out enough, I had just featured Vivienne Westwood in my "Happy Birthday" section of this blog because Ms. Westwood turned 69 years old yesterday. As most of you know, McLaren and Westwood were an item in the late 60's through 70’s. Strange that he passed away on her birthday, no? The couple have a son together, Jospeh Corre, who happens to be the founder of my favorite lingerie line, Agent Provocateur.

McLaren & Westwood, circa 1977

In 1971, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood opened a shop in London where they sold clothing that they designed for theatrical productions. McLaren met the band the New York Dolls (yep, Buster Poindexter!) in NYC in 1972 and upon returning to London, he started to create costumes for the group.

New York Dolls

Photo Credit: bbc.co.uk

By 1975, McLaren had renamed the shop SEX, selling a variety of S&M style apparel. Original Sex Pistols bassist, Glen Matlock (later replaced by Sid) worked at the shop and McLaren started to manage the band (called The Strand at the time). When McLaren was introduced to the eccentric John Lydon, he recruited him to be the lead singer of the band and renamed them the Sex Pistols. In 1977, their first single “God Save the Queen” was released. McLaren was arrested after he arranged for the Pistols to perform outside the Houses of Parliament.

Johnny Rotten

MaLaren managed other bands such as; Adam and the Ants, Bow Wow Wow and the New York Dolls. Apparently, McLaren was interested in managing the group the Red Hot Chili Peppers and approached lead singer Anthony Kiedis in 1985, but was unimpressed with them after a live set. He proposed to reinvent the band and Kiedis and his mates rejected the offer.

Adam & the Ants

Bow Wow Wow

McLaren also had a solo career in the 80’s and 90’s collaborating with Jeff Beck, Bootsy Collins and even Catherine Deneuve. Then in 2004, his song “About Her,” based on the Zombies hit “She’s Not There” was used by Quentin Tarantino in his cult film, Kill Bill Vol. 2. McLaren was accused of plagiarism for allegedly copying the work of a French musician, but was cleared of the charges.

McLaren circa 1975 in front of his shop in London

McLaren spent his later years living with his Korean American girlfriend Young Kim between Paris and New York. Malcolm McLaren died on April 8, 2010 at age 64 of mesothelioma in a clinic in Switzerland.

UPDATE 4.11.2010 :  The brilliant WendyB kindly sent me this post that she did back in October 2007.  It's chock-full of McLaren info.  She also mentions him here.  What can I say, great minds think alike!  Or, at least they like the same music!!  Thanks Wendy... you ROCK!

More Creeps

Just what we need, more creeps in this world!  Thought I would build on yesterday's post - looks like it's not just musicians rockin' these shoes.  Check out these creepers taking a stroll down the runway...

Armand Basi, Fall 2009

Nathan Jenden, Fall 2007

Galliano for Dior, Fall 2004

Photo Credits: Firstview

Creepy Cool

Radiohead - "CREEP"

Back in January, I posted about a fabulous pair of Rupert Sanderson pony skin, platform “creepers.” I wasn’t able to purchase these beauties because they were sold out. So, I have to settle for my less elegant, old school creepers.

wearing my white "creepers"

The Creepers -- rockabilly band from Australia

I only wear these babies every once in a while because they are the type of shoe you can’t wear every day – people remember them. With the exception of my singer/songwriter bud Jensen, none of my friends appreciate the rockabilly and punk rock vibe they suggest.

Stray Cats, Brian Setzer rocks out in his creepers

"creepy" Jerry Lee Lewis

Rockabilly music is a mixture of rock ‘n’ roll, country, R&B, swing and boogie woogie. The music style emerged in the early 1950’s making its mark with lots of bass, energy, pompadour hairdo’s, bolo ties (check out WendyB’s post on these!) and brothel creepers (as they are technically known).

The Clash - Mick Jones (second from left) in his black creepers

Sex Pistols (pre Sid) - Steve Jones in red creepers

In the 1970’s, Malcolm McLaren (who was Vivienne Westwood’s partner at the time) sold creepers at his shop in London and the shoe was popular among punk, new wave and ska bands. Typically, they were worn with stovepipe pants and white T’s, but some fans of rockabilly (known as Teddy Boys) also wore them with Edwardian style jackets.

jacket - Belstaff

tee - DSquared

jeans - Guess

shoes - T.U.K.

shades - Gianfranco Ferre

ring - Metal Pointus, Paris

Brothel creepers are a little hard to find today, but they are still sold as stores like the British Boot Company and Underground shoes U.K.

various creepers available on Polyvore