Springtime in Paris

Ah, Paris Fashion Week, how I wish I could be there.  But, I've got more important things to do -- lots of follow-up with my Spring '12 Biohazard Collection.  Still, I love to look at other collections and as a designer, it's kind of fun to see who is doing similar things to you and what trends are emerging as the shows wind down. 

I tend to have a short attention span and a I hit a saturation point very quickly.  Also, I look for new things and gravitate away from labels that have become too attainable or mainstream.  That's the snob in me!  Recently, I've discovered Carven, an old French label started in 1945 by Madame Carven Mallet.  Not much has happened with this brand in the past 20 years, but when designer, Guillaume Henry stepped in a couple of years ago, people took notice.  Henry, who previously worked with Paule Ka (love) and Givenchy (love love), seems to be just what Carven needed.

All photos: Style.com (Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com)

The Big "O"

NO, it’s not what you’re thinking! Really people, this is a PG-13 blog! Most of the time. And no, I’m not talking about the Oscars, or Oprah. The “Big O” refers to the eccentric and fabulously talented Rick Owens. Rick is a California boy who “pulled a Ralph Rucci” times ten! By that, I mean he not only showed in Paris once or twice, but he ONLY shows his collections in Paris. He has even gone so far as to become a permanent resident in 2003. The French have totally embraced Owens as one of their own, apparently more so than the fairly reserved American fashionistas. But, all of that seems to be changing because Owens has been on fire in the states for a few seasons now.

Rick Owens - Fall 2010

Photo Credits: Firstview

I went to Barney’s yesterday with my stylish friend and accessory expert, Rachel and I came across an exquisite, perfect little crochet sweater by Rick Owens. I was drawn to it right away. I loved the color, the stitch pattern, the asymmetric shape, the shoulder detail created by introducing a second yarn quality with a fuzzy texture… sublime! I can’t locate it on Barney’s web site so I can’t share a photo, sorry.

Rick Owens - Spring 2010

Photo Credits: Coutorture

Rachel suggested rocking a white tank with the holey (and Godlike Holy) piece which sounded like a good idea to me! I thought about it: $19.99 for an Abercrombie tank on Chase debit card, $1,700.00 for a Rick Owens crochet sweater on imaginary credit card. Marveling at the idea of having that kind of disposable income… priceless! Needless to say, I didn’t make the purchase! Rachel, however, did find quite a cute little printed cotton dress by Isabel Marant, so the excursion was a success.

Rick Owens - Fall 2008

Photo Credits: Firstview

I topped off the lovely day of shopping with a little Oscar party at the gorgeous WendyB and MrB’s place (OK, there – I mentioned the Oscars!). Wendy and I were disappointed with what we saw on the red carpet, but more on that tomorrow!

Old Is New

Balenciaga, 1952

Photo Credit: My book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank

Cristobal Balenciaga was born in 1895 in Spain’s Basque country – that very cool region just over the French border where the Gipsy Kings hail. Balenciaga immigrated to Paris in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War and opened a shop on avenue George V where he sold very clean and refined tailored suits and day dresses.

Balenciaga sketch, 1939

Photo Credit: My book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank

 By the early 50’s, he completely transformed the silhouette by broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. Tunics, cocoon coats, balloon skirts and Empire dresses were sculpted with heavier fabrics, like duchess satin, with a lot of body and stiffness.

Balenciaga, 1951

Photo Credit: My book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank

 Balenciaga passed in 1972 and the label was rather dormant for quite some time thereafter. In the mid-eighties and early nineties, two different designers tried to revive the Balenciaga name, but failed. When young designer, Nicolas Ghesquiere took over in 1997, people started talking about Balenciaga again and in 2001 when Gucci group assumed ownership, the label was back on the map.

Balenciaga - Spring 2007 magazine ad

I went absolutely crazy for Ghesquiere’s Spring 2007 collection for Balenciaga. I saved some pictures in a giant file that I so cleverly call, “stuff I like.” I pulled them out and scanned them to share. If you look closely, you can still see the holes from being tacked to my bulletin board!

Spring 2007 magazine ad

Spring 2007 from Collezioni magazine

I used to work with some very innovative Italian fabric companies and in 2005, I ordered some metallic fabric (Cotton/Nylon/Steel) from one of my favorite mills in Italy, Caverni Gramigni. I made a corset-like dress with nailhead detail --- imagine how ahead of the curve I felt when I saw the metal-like fabric two years later in Balenciaga’s Spring 2007 collection. I’m certainly not comparing myself to Ghesquiere, I am neither that delusional nor arrogant!

2005- My dress, modeled by Sylvia Williams in '08

This season, Ghesquiere brought us his usual mix of uber cool, body-conscious, geometric pieces mixed with super skinny pants. He introduced some knitwear this time through fabulous color block sweaters that somehow manage to maintain a dimensional shape. Incredible.

Balenciaga - Fall 2010 Collection

Photo Credits: Firstview

Going for Gold

In preparation for the Golden Globes soiree I’ll be attending tonight, I perused my closet for something to wear. I wanted to wear gold, of course. Unfortunately, my closet is pretty much a sea of black! I guess I’ll have to rely on accessories (a.k.a. costume jewelry!). Perhaps my beautiful friend, jewelry designer WendyB will let me borrow something REAL as she so graciously does from time to time.

Siobhan perma-stacked ring in 18K yellow gold, diamonds, pink saphhires, ruby

by Wendy Brandes

Last week, I wrote about a pair of shoes I wanted and how I put pictures of things I covet on my fridge or bulletin board, etc. Well, I came across this photo I ripped out of a 2007 magazine (I didn’t make a note of it, but my best guess would be Italian Vogue). This stunning body suit (below) is the creation of Russian designer Igor Chapurin. Believe it or not, it’s actually stretch jersey printed to look like molten gold. I was and still am, blown away. I want it. I also want the models mile high legs!

stretch jersey body suit - Igor Chapurin, 2007

Igor Chapurin was born in 1969 in Belarus. His parents ran a sewing factory and his grandfather was a specialist in the production of linen, so it’s not hard to see how Chapurin became interested in fashion. In 1992, he won a competition for young fashion designers in Paris. In 1993, he created dresses for the Miss Europe, Miss World and Miss Universe contests. Chapurin, who has long been called the “Russian Armani,” showed his first collection in 1995 which he titled "To Russia with Love".


Chapurin is a multi-talented, creative mind. He is a theatre lover and has designed not only costumes for plays, but entire sets, lighting and decorations for several productions. He was the first Russian fashion designer to be invited by the Bolshoi Theatre to design the costumes and stage sets for the ballet. Chapurin partnered in his first jewelry line in 2000 and in 2003 he did the same with a furniture and home accessories collection called Chapurincasa. In 2005 he launched Chapurinrg, a ski wear line. He regularly shows his RTW collections at Paris fashion week(s), so be on the look-out for his Fall show the first week in March!