It's 10pm - Do You Know Where the Vampires Are?

The 10pm TV time slot is always a struggle for me.  If I'm home, I usually watch about 20 minutes of the news, get depressed and flip the channel.  Tonight, while clicking my remote, I happened upon the latest episode of Law & Order: Criminal Intent and since I'm always happy to watch the tall, dark and intelligent, Jeff Goldblum, I paused. 

It seems as though Law & Order is the latest to jump on the vampire van, the bloodsucker bandwagon, the Transylvania train... somebody stop me, I've got more! Hmm, come to think of it, wasn't Jeff Goldblum in Transylvania 6-5000? So, apparently he's already done the research for his Law & Order episode!

Ed Begley Jr. and Jeff Goldblum in the 1985 film, Transylvania 6-5000

The lovely Tina, from The Occasional Cook, left a comment on my Vamps in Vogue post last week reminding me of the Count from Sesame Street and Count Chocula!  These were two very influential Counts in my life!  They made me feel like vampires weren't scary, instead they were funny, they could teach and they were delicious!

Count von Count & Count Chocula

This is my favorite vampy outfit right now, but I don't think it would be complete without Wendy Brandes' symbolic Vampire Diana Necklace (and ring) or her incredibly detailed and unexpected Bat Necklace in agate and silver.  Black nailpolish and red lips and I'm all set!

Givenchy, Fall 2010

Photo: Firstview

Wendy Brandes: Vampire Diana Necklace (left) in sterling silver and blackened silver & Bat Necklace (right) in agate and sterling silver

Fall Back Just As We Spring Forward

Just as it's starting to get hot and we approach the official start of summer, designers are stressing out about delivering their first shipment of Fall 2010 merchandise to the stores.  They are also starting to get their creative juices flowing as they turn their attention to Fall 2011.

DKNY runway, Fall 2010

Photo: Coutorture

So, what can we expect to see in the stores in July and August?  I thought I would share my Fashion Week overview that I wrote for the Fashion Group International.  I also have a report on FGI's Fall Ready-to-Wear presentation  by Marylou Luther, but that piece is in the bulletin for members only.  To become a member of the Fashion Group International, check out their website.

Fall 2010 New York Fashion Week started as sadly as it ended, bracketed by the tragic passing of designer genius Alexander McQueen and a heartfelt farewell to Bryant Park. But, what was sandwiched in between was pretty fantastic.

Alexander McQueen

Many designers opted to show off-site instead of the tents. Tent favorite Ralph Rucci unveiled his exquisite pieces in his SoHo space, Betsey Johnson showed at the Altman Building and FGI provided the space for its rising star winner, Peter Hiladgo, to exhibit his subtly intricate dresses. Marc Jacobs scaled back his guest list at the armory, but uploaded his show to YouTube for the entire world to see just hours later. Alexander Wang broadcasted his show on a giant LED screen in Times Square.

Neutral color palettes dominated the runways. On the first day in the tents, Max Azria sent shades of taupe and grey strolling down the catwalk. He followed with similar palettes at the BCBG show and for Herve Leger later in the week. Ports 1961 designer Tia Cibani also showcased tones of grey warmed up with rich browns and bronze. Designer duo Costello Tagliapietra chose toasty desert hues complemented by dusty rose and fiery orange. Other designers to stand their neutral ground included Michael Angel, Catherine Malandrino, Cynthia Steffe and Behnaz Sarafpour.

Costello Tagliapietra (left), Ports 1961 (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

Classic camel is definitely back in vogue—not that it’s ever really out (that’s why we call it “classic”). But, it is one of the “must have” colors for fall. Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors and Yeohlee featured camel color as did last season’s Project Runway winner, Irina Shabayeva, who showed a herd of camel coats, a few of which were painted with feathers. Speaking of camel coats, Carolina Herrera showcased some of the most beautiful outerwear pieces of the season in double-faced cashmere with sable trim.

Carolina Herrera (left), Irina Shabeyeva (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

While dove grey, beige, camel and pale tints ruled the runways, the fall 2010 season is not going to be completely colorless–shades of red, purple, turquoise and cobalt all made a strong appearance on the catwalks as well. The Custo Barcelona show was, as usual, a huge draw, and Spanish designer Custo Dalmau never fails to please the crowd: The label is known for color, wild prints and mixing unexpected fabrics. Custo’s fall 2010 collection added some much needed vibrancy to the sea of neutrals flooding the runways that week. We also saw bright color and pattern from Anna Sui, Alexander Herchcovitch and Peter Som.

Custo Barcelona

Color blocking continues as a trend. Grey and nutty-brown serve as the foundation for DKNY’s fall 2010 collection. These base colors were chopped into patterns using shots of cobalt, chocolate and maroon. Phillip Lim approached color blocking a little differently, through oversized buffalo checks showing up in a skirt, pant, shorts and a cape.

DKNY

Photo: Firstview

Also, an emphasis on texture was apparent on the runways—the fall/winter season is a natural for chunky fibers and yarns. We saw plush velvet, extravagant fur, wooly knits, nubby tweeds and crosshatch menswear suiting. Donna Karan contrasted textured fabrics with buttery satin, which contributed to the modern quality of her line.

Donna Karan

Photo: Firstview

Save the Garment Center crusader Nanette Lepore worked in a rich, warm palette encompassing texture through plaid flannel, metallic jacquard, plush velvet and beading. Diane von Furstenburg showcased just a few of the cozy knit sweaters we’ve come to except from her, but this season, DVF added other textural elements, such as metallic embellishment, fur, prints and rosettes. The Rodarte girls went for an arts & crafts patchwork feeling for fall 2010, mixing knits with chiffon, prints with plaid and crochets and embroideries.

Nanette Lepore (left), DVF (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

Luxury and fur continue to thrive, and while many designers are scaling back, there are those who will never need to—and the society women who buy their clothes would not stand for it anyway. Ralph Rucci added a little more sex appeal to draw in a younger customer this season, but his main focus remained on his loyal clients. He showed refined, sophisticated pieces in moiré, cashmere, mink, leather and guinea feathers.

Ralph Rucci

Photo: Firstview

“Ladies Who Lunch” won’t have to look much further than Oscar de la Renta next fall. Feminine skirt suits and outerwear in expensive fabrics were accented with fur. Colors were strong and saturated, belts flattered waistlines and prints were appropriately fresh. The award for the use of the most fur goes to designer Dennis Basso. Basso showed one exquisitely lavish coat, capelet and stole after another.

Oscar de la Renta (left), Dennis Basso (right)

Photos: Firstview

Leather is another fall staple and the 2010 season did not disappoint. Newcomer Joseph Altuzarra showed a tight little assortment of leather, fur-trimmed, cinched-waist, sexy black jackets, dresses and skirts. Coach’s Reed Krakoff debuted his signature line at a gallery in Chelsea. The military-themed collection featured shearling and leather mixed with wool and knits. Rad Hourani and Yigal Azrouel are two young designers who show both men’s and women’s apparel. Both designers used leather quite liberally. Even the Proenza Schouler boys mixed some leather into their graphically driven collection.

Yigal Azrouel (left), Reed Krakoff (right)

Photos: Firstview

A movement to bring professional attire back to the workplace for fall 2010 was indicated. Tailored suits took a serious stroll down the runway at Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Tahari and Ralph Lauren. At Jacobs’ show, shoulders remained strong, but were brought in considerably from his fall 2009 proportion, and crisp menswear jackets still looked soft and pretty. Along with her lovely little black cocktail dresses, Wang mixed in several black tie suits. Tahari belted the jackets, a la YSL, on his sleek power suits while Lauren’s beautifully tailored herringbone and velvet jackets armed with leg o’ mutton sleeves were balanced with slim-fitting trousers.

Tahari (left), Marc Jacobs (middle), Ralph Lauren (right)

Photos: Firstview

Several designers went for a stripped-down and refined approach for fall 2010. The King of Minimalism, Franciso Costa, brought us sculptured silhouettes that morphed into rounder shapes for Calvin Klein this season. Narciso stuck to his usual formula, producing clean yet cleverly executed dresses and jackets. While maintaining fuss-free, classic styling, Michael Kors kept things from looking uptight by baring a leg with a high slit in a skirt or showing some skin with an ultra-deep V-neck. Even the typically bold and sometimes overdeveloped Isaac Mizrahi toned it down and outfitted his women in lots of solid neutral-based colors, subtle prints and simple shapes.

Calvin Klein (left), Michael Kors (right)

Photos: Firstview

Bryant Park has served as the venue for New York Fashion Week since IMG Fashion Sr. V.P. Fern Mallis put it there back in 1993. While it’s sad to say good-bye, we are moving forward—and according to IMG Fashion, the space at Lincoln Center offers 25 percent more square footage than Bryant Park.

Go West

At first when I heard Joss Stone was collaborating with Nine West on a shoe collection, I thought it was a bit like a 60’s feminist collaborating with Maidenform. I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen Ms. Stone wearing shoes, but that doesn’t mean she doesn’t appreciate them. After all, what girl DOESN’T?

Joss Stone performs sans shoes in March, 2010

I went along with shoe and style maven, WendyB, to see Joss Stone talk about her new project, Vintage America, with Nine West at their showroom in midtown. Let me start by saying that this was my kind of event. I didn’t get two feet in the door when an adorable cater-waiter asked me if I wanted anything to drink. When I asked what he had, I was kind of hoping his reply would be something like, “Coffee, tea or me?” to which I would have chosen the latter!

Joss Stone talks about boots in the upcoming Vintage America Collection

the fall line is due to hit stores in August!

When we entered the showroom, Joss was perched on a stool answering questions and looking amazing. I spotted her playful pedicure immediately (she had each toenail painted a different color!), AND she was wearing shoes. Sexy shoes. Really sexy shoes. The super high wedges with a delicately thin strap were none other than Nine West. The fabulous shoes added several inches to Ms. Stone’s statuesque body and when she stood up after the Q&A session her lean legs looked nine feet tall. Needless to say, I didn’t pose for a photo op! I wasn’t getting anywhere near her. Suffice to say, she is a goddess and she is as sweet as she is beautiful.

Joss Stone's pretty pedicure

One blogger wanted to know what inspires her. Another asked what her travel essentials were. When questioned about the significance of her tattoos she said, in her endearing British accent, “I just wanted something I’d never go off and I figured I’d always like flowers – yeah, it’s that deep.” She chuckled a bit and added, “If I don’t like flowers when I’m fifty, then something probably went horribly wrong and I'll need to go to therapy.”

Joss Stone dishes about shoes

Nine West’s creative director, Fred Allard, is responsible for bringing Stone’s ideas to life. Allard was previously with Stephane Kélian (sadly, the SoHo shop closed in 2008) and his father was the creative director for Charles Jourdan. To say that he is a master of shoes is an understatement – it’s in his blood. There is no doubt that with the unique spirit and energy of Ms. Stone coupled with the creative expertise of Mr. Allard, Nine West has a slam dunk with Vintage America. Look for the merchandise to hit stores in August!

Nine West - Vintage America Collection (click here to shop)

Preview

Here is a little taste of tomorrow's post...

Vamps in Vogue

Can The Twilight Saga actually be continuing so quickly? The third installment, Eclipse is coming to theatres in June. I seem to recall that we just went through this feverish frenzy over the Christmas Holiday because I have a friend who is nuts over these films. It looks like this obsession that America (or is it the entire world?) has with Vampires is still going strong.

Dave Vanian and The Damned: Shadow of Love, 1985

Why now? If Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise weren’t able to cause this kind of a stir after Interview with the Vampire, then who would have guessed Mr. Pattinson (a.k.a. Edward) could? Not me. I, for one, have always been drawn to and intrigued by the dark, gothic appeal of the Vampire. I thought Dave Vanian of The Damned was “all that.” He definitely set a trend of sorts, but it only reached a narrow group of people. The Goth look was certainly not mainstream; in fact, Goth’s were considered strange, outcast and people assumed they were witches.

Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt: Interview with the Vampire, 1994

Dave Vanian of The Damned

So, while Dave Vanian, Siouxie Sioux and death rockers in general were judged and scrutinized, Robert Pattinson turns into a worldwide heartthrob and Twilight becomes a major phenomenon. Go figure. I think we need to credit Buffy the Vampire Slayer with making bloodsuckers seem cool. Spike stole hearts of girls all over the country including that of my beautiful friend, WendyB! Wendy “hearts” him (click here to read Wendy's post and to see her heart and spike ring!!).

Spike from the TV series, Buffy the Vampire Slayer

I’ve never paid any attention to the Twilight films, but they must have sunk in by osmosis. The first film of the series was released in the end of November, 2008. The same year, I dressed as Countess Dracula for Halloween, so either I was just ahead of the trend or Twilight got under my skin somehow. Eerie.

scary looking me as Countess Dracula - October, 2008

I snapped my own photos before I went out on the town... to hunt!!

*Don't worry mom and dad, I covered up with a cape!!

How long will this trend last? Who knows, but with bands like Vampire Weekend and shows like True Blood and Vampire Diaries all enjoying huge success, my guess is a while…

Vampire Weekend: Cape Cod Kwassa Kwassa, 2008

No SEX and No City

Sex and the City is kind of a misleading title for a film that takes place in a desert where sex is pretty much forbidden! Nonetheless, sexy siren, Samantha managed to get a smidge of action, though not without repercussions. Samantha (Kim Cattrall), pretty much stole the entire movie with her sharp tongue (you can read into that one, people!) and her hilarious antics. One of the best scenes was when a strappingly handsome Danish man speeds over sand dunes in a jeep and approaches the women and their hotel errand boys in the desert. As the gorgeous Dane drives off, Samantha collapses onto the girls laps in a faint of lust. “Lawrence of my labia,” she sighs. I know some people thought that joke distasteful, but I found it absolutely hysterical not to mention pretty damn witty.

Stacy (me) & Cleopatara/WendyB

both wearing WendyB 18K yellow gold and diamond Cleopatra earrings and I am also wearing the necklace!!

Forced puns and the type of cheese ball humor that I adore made the film light and fun. WendyB was telling me a story about a woman she knows who wrote a book about anorexia. “Is it a very thin book?” I asked. Ha ha. I’ll be here all night folks. Try the halibut, it’s fresh. This is the kind of necessary tongue-in-cheek that the film incorporates to avoid taking itself too seriously. Smart choice. After all, nobody is looking for drama in this movie. We got our share of that during the seven amazing years the show was on the air. At this point, it’s a party, a total girl’s night out, a fashion fest.

me (left) & adorable Jen Weitzman (right)

Last night, a posse of bloggers gathered to celebrate with dynamic jewelry designer, Wendy Brandes whose 18K yellow gold and diamond Cleopatra earrings appear in the film – one of the most iconic fashion films of all time! Shout out to WendyB! I suppose it was a coincidence that Samantha was wearing Ms. Brandes’ 4 ½” dangles in my favorite scene that I described above and we all let out a “Woohoo!” when they went in for a close up.

Kim Cattrall as Samantha in my favorite scene wearing WendyB 18K yellow gold and diamond Cleopatra earrings

Like the fabulous New York girls that we are, we met for cocktails before heading over to the Ziegfeld. The ever so glamorous and generous WendyB passed out 10 pairs of her Cleopatra earrings for all of us to wear to the show. I don’t know if it was because I had thousands of dollars of gold and diamonds dangling from my ears or simply the fact that they made me feel beautiful, but I walked with my chin a little higher as I pranced along with the other girls to the theatre. Heads turned. Tourists took our photo. We stopped traffic. OK, we didn’t stop traffic, but nothing can stop a NYC cab flying up 6th Avenue!

coy Tina (left) & sophisticated Ann (right)

wearing the silver version of Wendy Brandes Cleopatra earrings

After the film, we rallied the troops and made our way over to Benoit for more cocktails! MrB looked like a king surrounded with a harem of babes decked out in Cleopatra earrings. I thought at any minute someone may start fanning him or feeding him grapes! Actually, I have to give Wendy’s easy going husband kudos for dealing with all of us. And he was so proud of his wife; I think he would have worn a set of the Cleopatra earrings if Wendy had asked. Instead, he was outfitted with her brilliant Freud cuff links which suited him much better.

beautiful Tricia (left) & sultry Amy (right)

Here is a group photo with all of the lovely girls! (left to right): Tina (theoccasionalcook), Jen W. (40isthenewfabulous), Jen D., me, Amanda, Ann (holierthannow), Cleopatra/WendyB (wendybrandes,) Amy (midtowngirl), Alyssa,Tricia (fashionherald), Suzanne (ideefixe).

What's Old Is New - Third Installment

A while back I wrote about Cristobal Balenciaga and how the label sat fairly dormant for quite some time after the great designers’ passing, but came back strong in the 21st century, thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere. Then, I posted about Pierre Balmain and the struggle the brand had after the designer died in 1982. Finally, in 2005, Christophe Decarnin rescued the brand. To complete the trilogy, I wanted to add Jean Dessés to the group although nobody has revived the label, it is making headlines again today.

Kristin Davis in Jean Dessés

Photo: Getty Images

Hopefully, most of you read my recent post about the Sex in the City 2 premiere in NYC on Monday evening. Kristin Davis (aka Charlotte) wore a marvelous, pink chiffon dress by the late Jean Dessés. I thought she looked flawless, although I would like to have seen some larger earrings since she kept her neck bare. Wendy Brandes’ Cleopatra earrings would have been PERFECT -- Kim Cattrall wears these amazing 18K yellow gold and diamond, 4 ½” dangles in the film.

click here to see Wendy's post about her fabulous earrings

Anyway, back to Jean. I knew that I had some information on the great designer somewhere at home so I pulled out my old book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank. There he was in the glossary hiding below the “Three Jacques” as I refer to them (or Trois Jacques); Jacques Heim, Jacques Fath and Jacques Griffe. Good grief! Jean, Jacques and Pierre. Is there anything else to name a French designer? Yes, of course there’s Yves, Hubert, Gabrielle, Christian… Somehow, this all reminds me of a scene in one of my all-time favorite slapstick films, Top Secret! Watch as Val Kilmer is introduced to the French Resistance...

This is hilarious!  And Val was so cute back then...

So, back to Mr. Dessés! Sorry, I am easily side tracked. You know my motto, “I’d have an obsessive personality if I didn’t get bored so quickly.” Jean Dessés is actually of Greek descent (born in Alexandria, Egypt in 1904). He moved to Paris to study law, but found a passion for design instead. Dessés started sketching dresses in his notebooks during class (like another great designer, Geoffrey Beene) and by 1925, he started selling his drawings.

Dessés black crepe dress, 1952

Photo: courtesy of Roger-Viollet from the book, Couture

Dessés worked as a designer from 1925 – 1937 at the Maison Jane in Paris and upon leaving, he opened his own house. Mr. Dessés worked in chiffon quite frequently and he fancied ombré fabrics. His elegant gowns were draped, twisted, gathered works of art often showcasing uneven hems. The designer was also fond of kimono sleeves, asymmetry and architectural manipulation.

the great designer in 1960

Photo: Willy Maywald from the book, Couture

In 1963, Dessés closed his business and retired to Greece where he ran the boutique he had opened there in 1955. He died in 1970. Occasionally, his pieces can be found in select vintage shops, one of them being Decades, where Ms. Davis apparently picked up her perfect pink frock.