Johnny Be Good

John Lydon, otherwise known as Johnny Rotten the insolent front man for the Sex Pistols, turns 54 today. As a young delinquent, Lydon hung around Vivienne Westwood’s fetish shop called SEX where he met Malcolm McLaren who was working with the New York Doll’s at the time and looking to promote a new band. McLaren chose Lydon as the lead singer for the Sex Pistols because he was impressed with his ragged look. The name Rotten was given to him by band mate Steve Jones due to the fact that Johnny’s teeth were apparently – rotten.

Sid and Johnny looking stylish

In the late 70’s the Ramones went over to England to play at a gig with The Clash, the Sex Pistols and several other bands. Supposedly, Rotten was frightened of the Ramones and thought that lead singer Joey might beat him up! Have you seen Joey Ramone (not lately, of course)? Joey was freakishly skinny with a very sweet and passive demeanor. Johnny Rotten wasn’t so tough. Angry definitely, but not tough. He was genuinely concerned for his friend Sid (whose real name was also John) and his addiction to heroin. Johnny pleaded with Sid many times to stop and in the documentary The Filth and the Fury, Rotten is noticeably emotional when talking about his pal Sid.

Young Johnny.  I would totally wear this sweater today!

Rotten in a fabulous plaid blazer!

Obviously, the punk rock movement made a tremendous impact on fashion and the Sex Pistols were one of the leaders. The influence they had on fashion was completely unintentional. Bands like the Sex Pistols weren’t trying to make a fashion statement; on the contrary, they were with great effort making an anti-statement. Johnny and his mates didn’t use safety pins because it was cool; they actually used them to hold their threadbare clothing together since they couldn’t afford a new wardrobe. But, as with any performer, once they’ve established and a fan base, it’s inevitable that their followers soon imitate. After all, imitation is the highest form of flattery…

Johnny Rotten in the late 70's (left) / Rodarte men's 2009 (right)

Johnny on stage in a leather vest and leather cuff

me in menswear pinstripe vest (my own design), leather cuff and "swear rings" by WendyB

Today Johnny lives with his wife of 30 years, Nora, in Los Angeles.  He reunited with members from his band PiL which he joined after the Sex Pistols split in 1978.  They will be playing shows together in the upcoming months.

Drum Roll Please...

OK everyone, the answer to yesterday's fashion quiz is John Richmond!  Congrats to "fadetoblack" who nailed it!  The grand prize is... knowing that you are a true fashionista!  Sorry, but that's all I have to offer right now :)

A few of looks from John Richmond's Spring 2009 Collection...

If you compare these pieces to the photos in the post below, it's clear that Richmond has a point of view.  He's managed to update and refine his aesthetic while maintianing his brand inegrity. 

Thanks for playing!  I'll try to make the next one harder.

The Guessing Game

More from the archives...can you guess the creative mind responsible for these sexy pieces?

Spring 1992

Want a hint?  This designer is known for a rock and roll vibe and has dressed stars such as Madonna, David Bowie and Annie Lenox.  And no, it's not D&G. 

That Was Then, This Is Now

When I'm feeling uninspired and stagnant, I dive into my fashion archives for some much needed rejuvination.  By fashion archives, I mean the mountain of magazines I somehow manage to store in a one bedroom NYC apartment.  I know that in today's modern age of technology I can find almost anything online, but I'm a sucker for having something tangible.  Besides, I feel a tremendous sense of pride when I flip through my September 1985 issue of Vogue! Today, I happened to be browsing through an old Collezioni from Spring 1992 when I came across designer Susanne Wiebe who was showing in Munich that season.  I recently featured a few looks from Wiebe's Fall 2010 collection from Berlin Fashion Week.  What an interesting progression she has made over 18 years!  I thought it would be fun to compare...

Susanne Wiebe Collection - Spring 1992

Susanne Wiebe - Fall 2010

Well, that's quite a difference!  What do you guys think?

Do you "Nomi"

Klaus Nomi

I’m feeling in a very German mood since the end of Berlin Fashion Week on Saturday. Music influences and fashion and vice versa.  This is a topic I will discuss frequently on this blog. In 1982, my sister and I snuck downstairs to watch MTV late at night. Remember when MTV actually played music videos? Ah, the good old days. Anyway, they were showing a film called “Urgh! A Music War” which featured some very cutting edge musicians including up and coming bands like The Police, Devo and The Go Go’s. When singer Klaus Nomi took the stage, our jaws hit the ground. We couldn’t help but laugh at his strange appearance, yet we couldn’t stop watching. There was something fabulous about him! And wait until you hear him hit notes that would shatter glass...

Klaus Nomi - 1981

Klaus Nomi was born Klaus Sperber in Bavaria, Germany in 1944.  In the late 60's, he started singing in a gay discothèque in Berlin before moving to New York in 1972.  Nomi became very involved in the New York art scene.  He sang in a four night event called "New Wave Vaudeville" where he dressed in a spacesuit with a clear plastic cape.  His performance was so well received that he was invited to play at clubs all over the city.  David Bowie heard about the phenomenal performer and hired Nomi and friend Joey Arias in 1979 to sing backup in an appearance on Saturday Night Live.

Nomi's spacy outfits

Although Nomi never enjoyed mainstream success, he was an important part of the punk-rock, avant-garde, visual art scene in the East Village in the early 80's.  Nomi wore his signature black and white plastic tuxedo with spandex pants most of the time, but sometimes he donned a Shakespearean ensemble complete with Elizabethan collar.  It's not hard to see how he has influenced fashion.  Designers such as Gareth Pugh have adopted some of his ideas.

              Nomi in 1981      Gareth Pugh - Spring 2007

                        Klaus Nomi                      Gareth Pugh - Spring 2009

In August 1983, Nomi died at Memorial Sloan Kettering Hospital in New York as a result of an illness complicated by AIDS.  Apparently, his ashes were spread all over the city.  If you're interested in learning more about this talented and outrageous human being, check out Andrew Horn's 2004 documentary titled "The Nomi Song."

UPDATE: Madeline was kind enough to share a post from her blog.  What a great story!  Thanks Madeline.

Look of the Day

Vote below for your favorite outfit from Berlin Fashoin Week!

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Highlights: Berlin Fashion Week

Berlin Fashion Week came to a close on Saturday and if I had to summarize the shows in a few words, I would say: Leather, latex, luster and luxury! I could write a monster post wherein I review each collection, but who has time for that? Besides, Berlin doesn’t compare (yet) to New York, London or Paris Fashion Weeks. But, I personally enjoy discovering new designers with unique style and vision -- it’s so boring to look at the same labels all the time. So, let’s break down Berlin…

Schumacher, .dimitri, Susanne Wiebe

                                  

Color: Black was the strongest (non)color across the board. No surprise there. Dark shades of burgundy, midnight and charcoal are dominant tones in the fall palette. Sparkly silver and glimmering gold accent and brighten the deep tones. Brighter hues of blue and orchid add an energetic pop to the spectrum.

"Color" Strenesse Blue, .dimitri, Arrondissement AQ1

Fabric: Buttery satin, rich velvet and flowing silk chiffon mix with soft knits. Cashmere and virgin wool fibers are used in heavier jacket fabrics as well as warm jerseys. Leather is present in almost every collection. Tech qualities such as neoprene offset natural fabrics to create a modern twist.

"Fabric" Allude, Sam Frenzel, Anja Gockel

Surface: Silicon printing creates a glossy finish; sequins add glittery shimmer and leathers are patent and shiny. Plush pile fabrics offer texture as do a variety of fur and tweeds.

"Lacquer Shine" Chaya, Perret Schaad, Susanne Wiebe

"Glitter"  Anja Gockel, Stefan Ekert, Joop

"Lush & Plush"  Rena Lange, Sam Frenzel, Rena Lange

Key-Looks: Narrow silhouettes including skinny pants prevail. Business attire makes a statement in separates and dresses. The formal tuxedo diffuses into daywear creating sensual silhouettes. Oversized knits are paired with leggings and tights for a sporty-elegant ensemble.

"Skinny Pants"  Schumacher, ic! berlin, Stine Goya

"Tuxedo" Penkov, Hausach Couture, Boss Black

"Voluminous Knits"  Michael Sontag, Allude, Arrondissement AQ1

So, how do you like Berlin??  I'd say it's wunderbar!